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Graz: Nov. 3, 2025–Nov. 9, 2025

I’m going to weekly updates instead of daily updates.

3 Nov 2025

Another one of those “passed by it dozens of times but just noticed it now”; there’s faded lettering on the building façade: translates to PAGL CANDIES.

Faded lettering: PAGL SÜSSIGKEITEN

Someone must have overshot the curb at the parking spot and hit the building next door to where I live.

Broken section of wall

Advert for Wasa flatbread. Text is “Wasa / Finally! / A harder protein shake.”

Wasa / Endlich! / [picture of Wasa Protein+ package] / Ein harter Proteinshake.

2025-11-04

I decided to take a trip to Köflach, a city about an hour away by train. Then I saw that Bärnbach has a museum dedicated to glass art, and decided to go there instead.

Bärnbach

I saw these on the way from the train station into town:

Large array of solar panels in a field

They are all-in on solar here.

Array of solar panels in a field
City limits sign with the word Bärnbach
Bärnbach written vertically bottom to top (rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise). The second A is a red arrow poiting upwards.
Sign with § 57a ; below it two concentric circles. The outer circle has number 1-12 like a clock; the inner circle has numbers 23-29 clockwise starting at the top.

This has something to do with getting your car’s safety checked 🇦🇹.

Trees in foreground and midground; in background, mountains whose tops are covered in snow.
Wooden fence with added pieces of wood at angles to the fence slats.

Church of St. Barbara

This is a church which was renovated by artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. He was a great artist, and also a pretty strange dude 🇦🇹 (Click the “Englisch” link to see it translated.

Tree decorated with flowers and stalks of plants.
Arches with colorful support columns

More about these arches later...

Bush with red and orange foliage
Side of church tower. At top, an anchor with letters lambda and omega; at bottom, a person on knees praying in front of a cross.
Fountain in foreground; church tower in background
Three-level fountain with a black sphere on top
Front of church. From top, gold dome with cross, clock, sundial, and archway.
Colored mosaic pieces in sidewalk
Statue of St. Barbara, head tilted to right.

St. Barbara

Colorful mosaic tiles at base of a pillar of the church.

Hundertwasser was apparently really into mosaics.

Pillar covered with blue and red irregularly shaped mosaic tiles
Red and orange mosaic patterns around a circular window; the result looks like a flower
Church roof, tiles in green and light blue form an octagonal pattern.
Wall of church, painted with large, irregular rectangles.
Mosaic of Jesus and Mary, with three dead soldiers in WWII uniforms.

This mosaic is dedicated to...

Unseren Gefallenen 1939-1945, with a German iron cross

Our fallen 1939-1945. Um, OK.

At left, wood statue with frowning person who has two very long legs. At right, a totem pole-like wooden sculpture with a chess knight’s horse head
At left, wood statue with frowning person who has two very long legs. At right, a totem pole-like wooden sculpture with a chess knight’s horse head

There are quite a few archways on the church grounds, each with a symbol of some religion on it:

Triple archway (four columns, three arches)
Japanese Kanji for “nihon“; between the two symbols is a mosaic red sun.
Archway decorated with two long-horned antelope-type creatures in repose; between them a prayer wheel mosaic.
Arch with Jewish star of david symbol
Arch with Sanskrit inscription
Arch with arabic script in green
Arch with crescent moon and star at upper right
Arch with spiral design
Arch with three irregular circular shapes design
Arch with native American religious symbol
Arch with geometric design
African (?) religious symbol on arch
Arch with viking rowing ship design
Arch with African(?) mask
Arch with open book design

On the way to the glass museum:

Mosaic Apotheke symbol in shades of blue, with orange and black highlights

Even the local apothecary got into the mosaic motif.

Sculpture of mother bear on hind legs with two cubs on all fours
Garden ornaments of whimsical gnomes and a Tintin-like person
Reliefwork beehive with a large bee carved underneath.
Wall art of a long-haired man with moustache and goatee smoking a cigarette. He is wearing a gray shirt open to reveal a white t-shirt.

Across the street from the museum.

Bärnbach Glasmuseum

This was well worth the € 8 admission fee. These pictures are in no particular order, just as I saw things as I walked through the museum.

Multicolored glass spheres hanging from ceiling
Re-creation of a workshop showing oven, tools, and some blown glass.
Large (1,20m diameter) clear glass disc

This disc...

Poster showing Jefferson Memorial and pictures of an artisan producing the disc.

...is like one that was made for the Jefferson memorial

Display showing examples of bulls-eye panes (rectangular panes of glass with color bullseye patterns in them)
Display showing red, green, blue, and white glass crystals in jars
Vase whose neck consists of intertwined glass tubes
Decorative glassware
At left, a white urn with brown spots and blue interior. At right, a translucent green sphere with white highlights
At left, a clear bowl on two “supports”, one green and one blue. At right, a large glass blow with a blue top and green bottom
View of lower floor displays from upper floor
Multicolored glass spheres hanging from ceiling
At left, a fluted blue vase; at right, yellow fluted vase and dish
At top, cobalt blue dish with holes around edge; below a cobalt blue vase with stubby handles
Glass pitcher, pestle, and flask (looks like an Erlenmeyer flask) from 1st century CE

I think these are from the 1st Century CE. How they survived this long I have no idea.

At left, drinking glass with red vertical stripes; at right, what looks like a funerary urn with handles.
Glass sculpture with intersecting tubes of black and clear striped glass
Two glass flagons with a dragon motif on the handles and near the base.
At left, a wine glass with a trefoil shaped stem; at right, a fish
At left, a vase with spots of orange, red, green, and blue. At right, a vessel that curls into a spiral at the base. It is tinted orange at the top.
Two wine glasses, one extremely tall. Both have intricately designed stems with empty space in them.
At left, green fluted-top vase. At right, a sphere with multi-colored patches in it.
Green glass fish. At its right, a transparent green glass
From left to right, an orange plate, an abstract orange sculpture, and at right a vase that is primarily blue but clear at the top.
Cobalt-blue intertwined tubes of glass.
Four drinking glasses with ornate decoration. The one in the back is red with cut-glass design near the base.
Large green goose and two smaller goslings
At left, red pitcher and four red glasses. At right, clear vase with flowers painted on it.
Four ornately designed drinking glasses. The one at left has green highlights.
Closeup of glass with green glass elements
Two floor lamps. The bases are white with orange spots, then transitioning to orange. The upper part is cobalt blue. They look like large drinking glasses.
Very large beer glasses and bottle of Almdudler herbal soda

Apparently the giant beer glass is a Guiness World Record holder.

Display of various glass globes with different colors and shapes in them
Orange vase. Coming out at the top are twisted strands of glass in green, orange, and red, looking much like Medusa’s hair.
Blue goblet and ddrinking glass. They have geometric circular designs.
Abstract glass sculpture with a red helix around a central blue portion.
Orange glass bowl with lines radiating out from a central point.
Large variety of glassware. At center back is a large disk with brown, green, and blue sectors.
Abstract sculpture of what appear to be women’s legs wearing high heels. The legs are pink, green, blue, clear, and red.
Top section of floor lamp. The top has the shape of red flames projecting from the center.
Display case with drdinking glasses, a goblet, a jar, a bowl for holding candies etc, and a long scepter-like object with spiral blue and yellow lines along its length.
Variety of glass bottles for commercial products
Five drinking glasses in the same style in orange, green, red, blue, and black. All have circular “holes” in the coloring.
Glassworks available for sale in a variety of shapes and sizes

The museum gift shop has a lot of really nice articles for sale.

Bärnbach → Köflach

It was still pretty early in the day, so I decided to walk to Köflach (about 5,4 km away; a 1 hour 16 minute walk). I am glad I took the path that didn’t have a lot of buildings on it. The weather was perfect (about 15°C); the sky was clear, and the landscape was just gorgeous.

Open field in foreground, rolling hills and a small house in midground, and hills covered with trees in background.
Field in foreground, small village with church in midground, forested hills in background.
Large wooden shed with a coal car from a train inside.
Houses on a hillside, interspersed with evergreen trees
Memorial marker at roadside for Marianne Pieber (née Frisch) 1957-1992

This appears to be a roadside memorial marker.

Rolling hills intersected by a road; forested hills in background

Along the way, you pass by Piber, where they train the Lipizzaner horses. That’s why you will see a lot of horse-themed photos.

Cart with driver and passenger being pulled by a Lipizzaner horse.

Driving school for horses and their drivers.

Metal sculpture of horse rearing up on hind legs. The sculpture is made from horseshoes.
Sculpture made of horseshoes; it is a horse rearing up on its hind legs.

Köflach

And finally, Köflach itself.

Road sign reading Köflach
Woman in bandit mask pointing a banana at a librarian, with his hands above his head. The poster title reads „Lies oder stirb.“

“Read or die.”

Statue of Till Eulenspiegel, seated, holding an owl and a mirror. At the base of the statue are owl heads.

This is a statue of Till Eulenspiegel, whose name literally translates to “Owl-Mirror”.

Man in long coat, looking downward pensively, hands behind back.

Don’t know who this dude is.

On top, a slab with a man lying on his back. The slab is supported by the heads of three men wearing medieval hats. Below them, a doorway showing people supporting one another.

Entrance to a small mausoleum/shrine at a church.

Sculpture of worker in hard hat, carrying a large power tool on his shoulder.
Sculpture of a horse covered in a mosaic of irregularly shaped mirrored tiles.
Köflach in old fraktur style script

Sign at the train station.

2025-11-07

Stickers and graffiti; taken on the way to the Volkshaus in Graz.

This one needs no translation.

Sticker with line-drawn colorful flowers on the side. In the center, the words FUCK Tik Tok

This one does. It says “POLICE KILL! Mannheim was not an isolated case!” I’m not sure I understand this; a policeman in Mannheim was killed in 2024.

Spray-painted on a wall: POLIZEI TÖTET! Mannheim war kein Einzelfall!

This one is from the KJÖ (Communist Youth of Austria)

Three-panel drawing of a fork and knife transforming into hammer and sickle. Text: Eat the rich

Please cry quietly.

Large open mouth above a pair of eyelashes. One has a tear dropping from it. Text: bitte leise weinen

Neoliberal ideas are like crude oil; not refined. (From the Betriebsrat LebensGroß; a Betriebsrat is something like an employee’s union.)

Picture of crude oil pouring from a pipe. Text: Ideen von Neloliberalisten sind wie Rohöl, nicht raffiniert. Subtitle: Betriebsrat LebensGroß

Hocus Pocus; rich people shit on the toilet too!

Gold-plated toilet. Text: Hokus Pokus, Reiche scheißen auch am Lokus! Subtitle: Betriebsrat LebensGroß

Antifascist Action. Against Nazis. For Communism. Then as now.

Circle with two flags; in circle is text Antifaschistische Aktion. Below circle: Gegen Nazis. Für Kommunismus. Damals wie heute.

Also from the KJÖ

Words Class Wars in Star Wars font. Other text: The workers strike back